sexta-feira, 27 de fevereiro de 2009

The Other Side



To everything of marvelous I've been saying about India, my experiences and travels, some reality is naturally missing.
And probably because now I'm in countdown to return, the contradictions start jumping even more to my eyes and things that I took as inevitable start adding up and bugging me.

And of course I have to mention them to you at some point. So now is the time.

Here is the possible summary, of only the things that occurred to me now.


Of course you find exceptions, but for sure the rule in this country is as I witnessed:


They have no ‘collective thinking’.

They naturally try to take advantage of every situation.


They are very rude. To an outrageous point.


There´s no such thing as client service and satisfaction except in 5 stars.


To be a foreigner means to be seen as 'a walking dollar bill' (quoting Mariana).


The misery is really miserable here and many social roles and rules just reinforce it and make it inescapable for many right from birth.


To be a tourist here is challenging, to be an expatriate is a daily fight that in the end wears your energy and patience down.


I’ve never seen more lack of efficiency, logistics management, organization, information. E.g., it took me 5 hours in the main post office of Bangalore to finalize the process of giving in my parcels to send to Portugal. I had to accompany all the phases of the process to make sure the boxes didn’t get wrongly tagged, weighed (which at first they still were), placed, etc.


Their mind-set is very rigid and oriented towards survival, advantage and rituals.
I’ve hardly seen or met anyone who seemed to be happy.

CHILDREN are spoiled if they are boys, put up with or mistreated if they are girls (mostly because parents will have to pay loads to the groom's family for them to get married). They're put to work or crippled to beg for money.


Animals, namely street-dogs, are often mistreated.

The corruption is very high and works at all levels of society.


You see irresponsible action all the time:

- for public safety (maniac driving; street lighting/energy having exposed cables and high tension circuits at hand level; unstable sidewalks and construction structures; the Police maintaining metallic structures in the middle of the road with no notice or illumination, etc etc etc),
- for public health (burning garbage in the street; throwing any sort of garbage anywhere, even rivers, even office floors!; even supermarket items are full of dust)...

The level of Civilization of Indian society is very low.


This is a country of contrasts where you keep bumping into opposites.


Socially they are stuck to ancient cast system, prejudice and pre-conceptions that limit the life potential of the Self.


There’s little space for love in this culture. It’s more about rituals, obligations, convenience, logics and one's or one's family's goals.


They forbade dancing in Bangalore and any place closes strictly until 11.30 pm. Justice definitely doesn't target the actual problems.


They lack assertiveness. Even their head movement for 'yes' looks like 'more or less' or 'maybe' or even 'no'. And they don't know how to say 'no' or 'i don't know'.


Their notion of hygiene is VERY poor, so you definitely have to learn how to share your space with cockroaches, lizards, spiders and many sorts of biting mosquitos.

Shops, pharmacies, all sorts of businesses look exactly the same from the outside and you can rarely find what you want at first.

Women hold a very poor condition irrespective of their social status. The poorest and oldest work in construction (!). The younger and richest can only wait for the day they'll be given to a man chosen by someone else. The average cannot expect to be spoken to by a man. In many cases women are the ones working while the man stays sitting and drinking at home, and plus they suffer abuse.


People have hardly any social life, they live their family's or their husband's family's life, very often not their own.

Dignity doesn't exist here as I have known it until today. Not only do many people not act respectfully and don't act as to be respected, as also the cast and social differences really make people treat others as if they were not the same race or kind (either too tyrannically or too submissively). Plus there's the whole condition in which people appear to you to beg etc ETC ET CETERA.

People simply accept and repeat what their ancestors have done, evolution is very relative in this country and mostly stimulated by foreign investment.


ULTIMATELY AND SURPRISINGLY THIS COUNTRY WORKS IN CHAOS.


terça-feira, 17 de fevereiro de 2009

Memories from South-India


I had visited all those places: Goa, Hampi, Pondicherry, Chennai, Bangalore, Allepey, Fort Kochin (only Mumbai - the point of origin - I hadn't, but still I didn't this time, after some typical but personally rare digestive problem that kept me in bed)...

... but to re-live these sites with you, my darling, made a whole lot of difference. I love you forever.

Again this is not the story of my trip with my sister-like friend Ana Gil (a.k.a. Ana Sanchez de Sousa, Ana Gil de Sousa Pinto, Aninha or Docas), but the story of some first striking memories from South-India in the 1st fortnight of Feb'09 with her.

  1. The attempt of a pseudo-guru to ask for money for some lucky-charm objects and a forehead paint tikka alleging a religious festival while we still carried our backpacks together for the first time.

  2. Putting pain-killer mint gel in my mouth in an attempt to brush my teeth in a (quite common) pitch-dark guest house room in Allepey, Kerala.

  3. Sleeping in never-washed brown dirty berths and hearing the vomits of someone 4 am in train Hampi-Chennai: immediately rated 2nd grossest experience in India (classified under a revolving stomach).

  4. Having our heads full of flowers and eating fruits from the trees while walking the canal villages, homes and rice plantations of Allepey with a local villager.

  5. The contrast in cities like Mumbai and Pondi between touristic and urban/local areas.

  6. The moving fact that Ricky came to Mumbai just to say goodbye to me. Really appreciated it, dear. Sorry for having had to stay in bed.

  7. Great sunset on top of Hannuman/ Monkey Temple, Hampi.

  8. Good guides: good people: T. - village tour in Allepey; call rickshaw driver Vikram if you go to Hampi for any pick-up or drop or day tour: he is honest like there are few, very helpful and a nice person: his number: 00919480568903.

  9. My carry-around small back-pack always having everything that was needed.

  10. Meeting young, middle-aged and aged women travelling India alone and finding it easy. Like our newly made friend Ute, from Germany, in Hampi - the 65 y.o. youngster, our pal.

  11. 'Ladies Only' marked zones: bus seats, train wagons, queues.

  12. Being stolen an ice-cream by a crow while walking Fort Cochin ocean promenade, reminding me of having been stolen 6 bananas by a monkey on the way to Taj Mahal.

  13. A Cape-Verdean Coladera music playing at 'Upstairs Italian Restaurant' in Fort Cochin, after Kathakali (again an amazing artistic experience).

  14. Ayurvedic massage in a wooden table with oil: the 2 girls by 2 girls.

  15. The elephant bath, feeding and ride in Perimbavoor, Kerala.

  16. Having my very travelled sandals sowed for the 3rd time.

  17. Eating egg biriyani (an Indian rice specialty) with hand in my final train.

  18. Staying in a family-house in Kochi.

  19. Palolem Beach, Goa, and the will to stay longer.

  20. Ana's determination and success in overcoming just about enough of all India's personal challenges: hygiene, mosquito bites, garbage and dirtiness, danger and relative risk, fear of malaria and others, men's looks, usage of public low budget crowded transportation and accommodation, luggage carrying and pains, heat, confrontation with poverty and misery, disturbing noise and loud horning, constantly having someone trying to sell to you = cheat you, etc.

  21. The way everything simply worked in spite of chaos.

  22. The way I started really missing home and people for the first time in my life after the taste of familiarity through Ana. The re-awakening of romantism.

  23. Feeling like a good traveller and back-packer.

  24. The orange(st) sunset in Kerala.

  25. Sitting on the open-door steps of train Madgaon-Cancona, Goa.

  26. The trip in suburban bus to Auroville: overcrowded, literally glued to 3 indian women, their babies, bags and buckets.

  27. Our late night talks in beds covered by mosquito-nets or upper-berths of trains, recovering all the lost time after not having met each other for long.

  28. Taking every day (almost! - whenever there could be one) 2 or 3 showers in one go after having put on a thick layer of dust.

  29. The colonial outlook of Old Goa and Pondicherry and the Portuguese and French heritage and cultural/ linguistic remains.

  30. How good it is to revisit places and see them with less anxious eyes, especially when you have such a great company! :)


segunda-feira, 16 de fevereiro de 2009

Memories from North-India


This is not the the story of Maria (Slovakia), Raquel (Portugal), Anna (Russia), Ahmed (Egipt), Michelle (Brazil) and Eduardo (Brazil) in an unforgettable 2 week trip in the North of India during the last fortnight of Jan'09.

Rajasthan and Punjab have thousands of years of stories to tell themselves, so this is the story of my memories of North/ North-Western India:
  1. Thousands of colourful sikh turbants.

  2. 'Hello! 5 rupees._ ... _ ... Ok. 10 rupees' - said the begging children.

  3. My Yoga practice in the Rajasthan desert sunset.

  4. The profuse jewels of arabesque architecture.

  5. The old man snoring in one of several sleeping trains.

  6. 'Excuse me, 'mam. Don't miss my shop.'

  7. The generosity of some and the greediness of others.

  8. The sun 'heating' the lake in Udaipur.

  9. The sunrise watching the Maharaja Palace from a distance in Jodhpur, the blue city... and being awake to see it.

  10. Climbing to the Tiger Fort in Jaipur, city of the pink city.

  11. Squeezing in my initial Reiki practice in every possible circumstance, in every rickshaw, jeep, waiting room, coffee table.

  12. The richness of the maharajas and their palaces.

  13. The sad or surprising adultness in many children.

  14. Managing loads of people and luggage in auto-rickshaws (three-wheelers).

  15. No hot shower or no shower at all.

  16. The con-men in Delhi - outrageous and extremely tiring!

  17. The Taj Mahal in Agra.

  18. How handy my blanket in rooms and trains.

  19. Surprisingly always managing to relax in each of the 8 cities we visited in 10 days.

  20. Sitting in the sun in front of Lotus Temple, Delhi (Baha'i House of Worship).

  21. The monk in Jain Temple 'seasoning' all the images of Budha #8, Jaisalmer.

  22. Feeling cold again - never thought I could miss it!

  23. The Golden Temple (the 'Meca' of he Sikh Religion), sun-lighted and reflecting in the lake, and its chantings at night in Amritsar, Punjab.

  24. Young and old Indians wanting to take pictures with/of us - and inevitably getting to our nerves.

  25. Thousands of stars near the bonfire in the desert, while eating fire-made food prepared by our camel-guides.

  26. Easier and easier to get into 'alfa' state.

  27. The 7h bus-trip Jodhpur-Udaipur, almost freezing and with no space for my legs.

  28. The covered heads of women.

  29. Being so well taken care for by Rhea and Rhea's family in her house in Delhi.

  30. Yoga on the floor of Bangalore airport 3 am first day and in a Delhi Airport chair 9 am last day.